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Something a bit different
09/05/2025

Something a bit different

11) now that the painting is done, left to cure, it’s time for the glitter (which makes all the difference). The glitter...
07/08/2024

11) now that the painting is done, left to cure, it’s time for the glitter (which makes all the difference). The glitter is just pressed on with your finger, press into the glitter than onto the wig. The latex finish is sticky enough to hold the glitter. I use large, medium and fine grade glitter, so you have big pieces of sparkle and all the gaps then filled.

10) So have waited a few days for the foam clay to cure. Then warmed all the surface with the craft heat gun, just to ma...
03/08/2024

10) So have waited a few days for the foam clay to cure. Then warmed all the surface with the craft heat gun, just to make sure the foam is relaxed in its shape and not trying to fight the glue. It also helps close out any holes from using pins, and close the foam surface more.
1st coat is a mix of 2/5 Mod Podge 2/5 liquid latex and 1/5 water.
2nd and further coats are 1/2 liquid latex 1/2 acrylic paint
As I’m doing an ombré look, I’ve had to mix 4 shades, which for each layer I’ll overlap differently. As the paint dries more like a glaze, it will have some transparent properties to it. Just trust the process and that glitter fixes everything in the end 😜

9) Now to get it looking a bit more polished. Using foam clay, after wetting the area I want to work in, I roll little s...
27/07/2024

9) Now to get it looking a bit more polished. Using foam clay, after wetting the area I want to work in, I roll little sausages of the foam clay to push into any gap or where I need to build sections up. A wet finger is used to smooth down the foam clay, as well as silicone sculpting tools to keep some clearer edges. Here’s a before and after of just a part of the fringe

8) On to the fringe. I’ve part way split some full dowels to all ow the tip to be tapered, and to go on either side of t...
27/07/2024

8) On to the fringe. I’ve part way split some full dowels to all ow the tip to be tapered, and to go on either side of the foam framework created originally.

7) building the swirls up on the side and layering the top, working back towards the fringe line
23/07/2024

7) building the swirls up on the side and layering the top, working back towards the fringe line

7) continuing the foam rods upwards, adding in curls as the top layer. On the crown, a base layer is added back from the...
22/07/2024

7) continuing the foam rods upwards, adding in curls as the top layer. On the crown, a base layer is added back from the fringe area, which more curls will be laid over

6) I’ve continued the rod up the sides, overlaying some sections to add interest. I’ve left some gaps, as I’ll next go i...
21/07/2024

6) I’ve continued the rod up the sides, overlaying some sections to add interest. I’ve left some gaps, as I’ll next go in with pieces for that section that will curl over the base pieces

5) A few lines of foam dowels on the back
20/07/2024

5) A few lines of foam dowels on the back

4) so the transition from 1 to 2 layers of foam is a bit more gentle, I’ve used foam clay to go over the seams. This wil...
19/07/2024

4) so the transition from 1 to 2 layers of foam is a bit more gentle, I’ve used foam clay to go over the seams. This will make gluing on the next layer of foam rod a lot easier

3) framework for a raised flick fringe is added, which will give strength and depth to the shape
19/07/2024

3) framework for a raised flick fringe is added, which will give strength and depth to the shape

2) To create more volume without too much product and weight, a substructure is made. In this case, as it’s a raised hai...
19/07/2024

2) To create more volume without too much product and weight, a substructure is made. In this case, as it’s a raised hair style, I’ve made 1/2 a globe shape that has a diameter about 5cm larger than the skull cap size

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