27/03/2026
Most people visit Paris and never know it exists. Seven kilometres south of the city, larger than the entire Principality of Monaco, opening at three in the morning every single day — this is Rungis, the world’s largest wholesale food market. And the story of how it came to be there is one of the most extraordinary in the history of French food. 🎙️
For nearly a thousand years, Paris fed itself through Les Halles — the magnificent iron and glass market in the heart of the city that Émile Zola called the belly of Paris. Every night, market workers circulated through the alleyways, transactions were settled over a glass of Beaujolais, and the all-night restaurants served onion soup to anyone still standing. It was alive in a way that very few places have ever been alive.
And then in one extraordinary weekend in February 1969, the whole thing moved. 20,000 people, 1,000 wholesale companies, 5,000 tonnes of goods, 1,500 trucks, a former general managing the logistics, and US President Nixon visiting Paris the same weekend. The belly of Paris packed up and headed south. And according to a legend nobody has ever quite disproved — the rats came too.
Today Rungis supplies food to 18 million people, turns over 12 billion euros a year, and quietly underpins every extraordinary meal you have ever eaten in France. And since June 2024 you can get there directly on Line 14 of the Paris Métro. Set that alarm, dress warmly, and go. It is one of the most memorable food experiences Paris has to offer.
The full episode is on Fabulously Delicious right now — link in bio. 🎙️