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FedProfits For over 12 years, the International Association of U.S. Government Contractors has enabled small bu

10/11/2026

There's nothing quite as frustrating as spending a good part of your weekend cutting, splitting, and stacking firewood, only to discover months later that some of it is damp, starting to rot, or still too wet to burn properly.

And the worst part? Sometimes the problem isn't the wood itself. It's what happened after you stacked it.

I've always thought stacking firewood looks like one of those jobs you can hardly mess up. You split the logs, pile them neatly beside the shed, throw a tarp over them, and call it a day.

Well, that tarp can cause more trouble than you might expect.

If you wrap the entire pile, you're keeping the rain out, sure. But you're also restricting the airflow that helps the wood dry. Covering the top while leaving the sides open usually works much better.

The same goes for stacking directly on the ground. A couple of pallets or some sturdy rails can make a difference by keeping the bottom logs away from damp soil.

And those big, unsplit rounds? They might look impressive sitting beside the woodshed, but they generally take longer to season than split firewood. Getting them split early gives the moisture more exposed surface to escape through.

Still, there's one mistake I think deserves more attention than the others: assuming firewood is ready just because it has been sitting outside for a few months.

I've seen wood that looked perfectly seasoned on the outside but was still damp inside. That's where a moisture meter comes in handy. Split a piece open, check the freshly exposed face, and aim for a moisture content of 20% or less before burning it in a wood stove.

Burning wet firewood means spending more of that hard-earned heat evaporating water instead of warming the house. It can also contribute to smoke and creosote buildup in the chimney.

One important thing to remember is that seasoning conditions aren't the same everywhere. The type of wood, log thickness, local humidity, rainfall, temperature, sunlight, wind exposure, and even how the pile is arranged can all affect drying time.

Oak, for example, often takes considerably longer to season than many softer, less dense woods. And a stack drying through a warm, breezy summer won't necessarily behave like one sitting through a cool, damp season.

That's why I wouldn't rely on a fixed number of months to decide when firewood is ready.

A little extra attention when stacking and storing it can save a lot of frustration when winter arrives.

Because once the temperature drops and the stove becomes part of your daily routine, you want to spend your evenings enjoying the warmth—not fighting with logs that refuse to burn.

10/09/2026
10/04/2026
10/04/2026

Is there anything more annoying than a door that constantly rubs, sticks, or refuses to close smoothly without a fight? 😤 Door sticking is one of the most common household issues, especially when seasons change and humidity levels shift. The good news? You don’t need to call a expensive handyman to fix it!

Here is your ultimate step-by-step DIY guide to fixing a sticking door in under 30 minutes:

Step 1: Locate the Rubbing Spot
Close the door slowly and look for where it’s catching against the frame. You can often see wear marks on the paint or friction lines. Pro tip: Run a thin piece of paper around the edges while the door is closed—where it stops is your problem area!

Step 2: Check & Tighten the Hinges
Nine times out of ten, a sticking door is just a sagging door! Grab a manual screwdriver (avoid power tools here so you don't strip the screw holes) and check the top and bottom hinge screws. Tighten every single screw on both the door side and the frame side.

Step 3: Replace Hinge Screws (The Pro Trick)
If the screws keep spinning and won't tighten, remove one of the middle screws on the top hinge and replace it with a 3-inch wood screw. This drives deep into the wall framing studs and pulls the entire door frame tight and straight!

Step 4: Check Door Alignment & Gaps
Step back and inspect the gap around the entire door. Is it even on all sides? If tightening the hinges balanced the gap and fixed the rubbing, you're all done!

Step 5: Mark the Trouble Area
If the door is still rubbing after tightening the hinges, close the door and use a pencil to mark the exact area where the wood is hitting the frame.

Step 6: Sand or Plane the Edge
Open the door and use medium-grit sandpaper (around 80 to 120 grit) or a sanding block to smooth down the pencil-marked area. Work slowly and test the fit frequently—you only want to remove just enough wood so the door closes smoothly without leaving a huge gap.

Step 7: Test & Touch Up
Test the door again! Once it opens and closes with a perfect, even gap, touch up any bare wood with paint or sealer to keep moisture from swelling the wood again in the future.

And that’s it! 🎉 Simple tools, a little patience, and your door is back to smooth opening.

👇 Drop a comment below: What's that one annoying DIY project in your home you’ve been putting off?

10/01/2026

🚰 Tired of that annoying drip… drip… drip in your kitchen or bathroom sink?

That constant dripping isn’t just driving you crazy at night—it’s literally washing your hard-earned money straight down the drain! High water bills and wasted gallons are standard with a leaking faucet, but the good news? You DON’T need to pay hundreds of dollars for a plumber to fix it.

Fixing a dripping sink faucet spout is one of the easiest DIY home improvement projects you can tackle this weekend. Here is the ultimate step-by-step repair guide to stop that leak for good:

🛠️ Step-by-Step Guide: How to Fix a Leaking Sink Faucet
1️⃣ Shut Off the Water Supply
Before you touch any tools, look under your sink cabinet and turn both shut-off valves (hot and cold) clockwise until tight. Turn on the faucet to bleed out any remaining water pressure in the lines.

2️⃣ Remove the Faucet Handle
Look for a small decorative cap or a set screw behind or under the handle. Use an Allen wrench (hex key) to loosen the screw, then gently lift the handle off to expose the inner cartridge.

3️⃣ Access & Remove the Stem Cartridge
Grab a pair of adjustable pliers or a wrench, grip the retaining nut holding the cartridge, and carefully loosen it counterclockwise. Pull the cartridge straight up and out.

4️⃣ Replace the Seals and Springs (The Culprits!)
Most drips happen because the rubber O-rings wear down over time or the small inner springs lose tension. Take out the worn-out O-rings and squished springs from inside the valve body, and replace them with brand-new ones. (Pro tip: Coat your new O-rings with a tiny bit of silicone plumber's grease for a perfect watertight seal!)

5️⃣ Reassemble and Test
Put the cartridge back in, tighten the retaining nut, reinstall the handle, and turn your water supply back on underneath the sink. Turn the faucet on slowly to flush out any trapped air—and voilà! No more drips, no more wasted water!

💡 Why Is Your Faucet Leaking in the First Place?
Over time, mineral deposits from hard water wear out internal rubber seals, cause O-rings to crack, and weaken springs. Swapping these cheap, couple-dollar replacement parts is usually all it takes to bring your sink back to life.

📌 Save this post for your next weekend project!
👉 Tag a homeowner or friend who needs to fix their leaky faucet today.

09/25/2026

“Thank you for 10 incredible years, for the positivity and unwavering support. Y’all are the best fans on sports! BEERS ON ME!”

Ian Happ, a man of the people. 🙌

(via bleacher_bums/IG)

05/29/2026

The goal isn't a great discipleship program.

It's discipleship that goes home with people.

Josh Poteet puts it plainly — if your methods can't travel from the church building into the living room, they're not scalable enough.

Disciple Making starts in the pew. It has to finish at the dinner table.

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