20/05/2026
*A Picture of Dorian Astray"
Sitka Alaska - the Fortress of Bears and finishing with Halibut bits and 2 lb of crab.
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In 1867 Russia sold Alaska to the United States for seven million dollars, which was two cents an acre, and both sides thought they were being extremely clever as apparently no one thought to consult the original land owners the Tlingit, who had owned it since the beginning and whose opinion was not considered relevant by either empire doing the selling or the buying.
The Russians called their empire the Bear and the Tlingit had lived alongside the actual bears for ten thousand years and understood both kinds — the one that came with warships and the one that came through the forest — and when the Russians came in force in 1804 the Tlingit held their fort for six days against cannon and warships before withdrawing into the forest on their own terms, which is not the same thing as losing, and the Russians knew it.
The handover ceremony in 1867 was not dignified. The imperial flag got tangled on the pole and a soldier climbed up to free it and the flag wrapped itself around him instead, which was not what the Romanof Tsar had envisioned. They got it down eventually because empires usually manage, given enough time and embarrassment despite no negative tik-tok posts.
The Russian bear went home.
The Americans raised their flag and put the most spectacular real estate on earth in a drawer for the better part of a century until 1959 when someone found it again and made it the 49th state, which is the kind of thing that happens when you buy something for two cents an acre and forget you own it until it turns out to be magnificent.
The actual bears are at the Fortress of the Bears on the edge of town, rescued and enclosed, moving the way bears move when there is nowhere in particular to go. The fortress keeps them safe from us while maintaining the polite fiction that it is the other way around.
The Tlingit are still there. They were never asked about any of it.
This is Southeast Alaska. It is magnificent and it is melancholy and it does not apologize for being either.
We started with golden crab and Halibut bites...so good was rich
Then snow crab after a break. Both crabs were almost perfect, which is as close to perfect as anything in this world gets and considerably closer than most things can manage.
We did not argue about which was better. We simply ordered more. And we refuse to apologise for our gluttony - we did it for the hal-i-but 😎