12/06/2026
Stories of saloop – and turtle soup.
Saloop, jelly, and turtle soup were all served up at June’s Literary Lunch. Not that these were actually on the menu at the Old Watling – they were all revealed by our speaker, author Peter Ross, as popular dishes for diners in Georgian London.
Prompted through adept questioning by Freeman Georgina Brown, Peter picked out distinctive meals from different times of the Georgian day. Peter told the audience that saloop – a starchy, hot drink made from orchid roots– had once been an early morning staple in the city, especially for poorer people. It disappeared as coffee took its place as a pick-me-up.
Jelly was also widespread. Although highly respectable during the day, jelly had a dubious reputation as an aphrodisiac, and became a popular choice for s*x workers when served up at late night jelly shops. And the sought-after turtle soup, taking six hours to make, starting with a live turtle, could only be purchased by the very well-to-do.
Peter’s lively introduction to Georgian dining held more surprises, including the history of Indian-inspired foods in England. London’s first Indian restaurant is often dated back to 1810, but as far back as 1773, the Norris Street Coffee House was selling curries and pilau rice, and even providing takeaways. Fish fried in flour was introduced by Sephardic Jews in east London, although it wasn’t until later in the 19th century that this was paired with the potato chip – the rest being history...
The well-attended lunch proved a delightful diversion, especially on one of the dull, wet days of mid-June. Peter ended by pointing out that many of the hearty dishes chosen by the lunch guests – including the fried fish and steak pies- would have been very familiar to Georgian Londoners.
An expert on Georgian history, Peter is a former Chief Librarian at London’s Guildhall Library. Copies of Peter’s book ‘Insatiable Appetites’ were also on sale (with a donation to Stationers’ Charity funds)
