04/02/2014
information on world renowned handicraft of Lucknow
There is no parentage of Chikan, but is presumed that it was originated centuries ago in the time of Mughals in India and ended with them. Again it was revived in the period of Nawab's of Oudh (Avadh). They not only patronized this finest hand embroidery but this handicraft reached to its perfection and they honed this exquisite needle hand work again.
Chikan is a type of thread hand embroidery with predominantly floral design. It is mainly done with untwisted cotton thread on white & thin fabrics like malmal (muslin), tanzeb (glazed cotton) & adhi (cambric). Now a day many others fabrics have been used such as coloured natural Silk & Cotton/Polyester mixtures.
There are fourteen (as known to me uptil now) stitches mostly used to produce exclusive and exquisite designs of Chikan, Bakhiya (popularly known as Shadow work), Murri (major feature of Chikan), Tepchi (running stitches, it closely resembles Katha work in appearance), Jaali-Hathkati work (pulled work stitches of Chikan) & Daraj/Daraz & Khatav (applique work, a rare & difficult technique of Chikan)Hool (detached eyelet), Zanzeera(chain stitch), Rahet (stem stitch) Banarasi(outline),along with a number of derivatives like Pechni, Pashni, Bijli, Kaudi, Dohra Bakhiya and Phanda/Fanda etc.
Artisans involved in Chikan kari are Thappagars (the woodblock carvers), Rangsaaz (dyers), Cheepies (printers), Darzis (tailors), Sozankars (embroiders) and Dhobis (washerman) Chikan is a source of livelihood for thousands of people.The fabric used is light - weight to make this piece an ideal leisure and ceremoniale, especially in summers.
