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Zola Global Zola Global is a Sustainability, Environmental Design and Natural Building and Consulting business and supports Creative Placemaking.

07/10/2026

Some ornamentals, despite their beauty, should never be planted directly in the ground. These beauties are for containers only!

07/10/2026

Turn a simple raised bed into a fully enclosed garden that protects vegetables while keeping every plant easy to reach.

Plan the U Shaped Layout

Begin by measuring the available space and leaving enough room around the outside for mowing, repairs, and harvesting through the mesh. A U shaped design creates a central walkway with growing beds on three sides, allowing you to reach most plants without stepping into the soil.

Keep each bed narrow enough to reach the center comfortably. A width of about 3 to 4 feet works well when the bed can only be accessed from one side. Make the center aisle wide enough for kneeling, carrying baskets, and moving a small garden cart.

Prepare the Site

Choose a location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight during the growing season. Remove the grass and check that the ground drains well after rain.

Level the site before construction so the beds and enclosure remain square. The walkway can be covered with compacted gravel, wood chips, or another permeable surface that reduces mud without trapping water.

Build Strong Raised Beds

Construct the beds with naturally durable wood or lumber rated for garden use. Use exterior structural screws rather than ordinary interior fasteners.

Join the corners securely and add interior bracing if the beds are long. Damp soil places considerable pressure on the boards, so unsupported sides can bow outward over time.

Line the bottom with hardware cloth if burrowing animals are a concern. Overlap the seams and fasten the mesh to the frame before filling the beds.

Fill the Beds Properly

Use a loose blend of quality topsoil and finished compost rather than filling the entire bed with dense native soil. The mixture should hold moisture while still draining freely.

Fill the beds nearly to the top, then allow the soil to settle before planting. Add more mix as needed so low areas do not develop along the edges.

Build the Enclosure Frame

Attach upright posts to the raised beds or install them beside the boxes with secure footings. Connect the posts with horizontal framing across the top and around the sides.

Check each section for level and square as you work. A rigid frame is important because the mesh, door, climbing plants, wind, and winter weather will all place stress on the structure.

Use closely spaced supports across wide roof sections to prevent the mesh from sagging.

Choose the Right Mesh

Cover the sides and roof with galvanized hardware cloth or another durable garden mesh. Smaller openings provide better protection against rabbits, squirrels, and many birds than ordinary chicken wire.

Fasten the mesh firmly with exterior screws and washers or heavy staples designed for outdoor construction. Trim sharp edges and cover exposed ends with wooden battens so clothing and skin cannot catch on the wire.

Extending the mesh over the roof prevents climbing animals and birds from entering from above.

Add a Full Size Door

Build a framed door that is wide enough to enter while carrying tools, compost, or a harvest basket. Use sturdy exterior hinges and install a simple latch that can be operated from inside and outside.

Leave only a small gap beneath the door. Rabbits and other small animals can enter through openings that initially appear insignificant.

Check that the door swings freely after the beds are filled, since settling soil and shifting lumber can change the alignment.

Paint or Stain the Wood

Allow new lumber to dry as recommended before applying an exterior finish. Use a durable outdoor paint or stain and coat all exposed faces, especially end grain and joints where moisture can enter.

A muted green finish helps the enclosure blend into the garden while giving the structure a more complete appearance. Keep finishes away from direct contact with edible plants and soil unless the product is specifically suitable for that use.

Add Vertical Supports

Use the tall enclosure for climbing vegetables such as cucumbers, pole beans, peas, and indeterminate tomatoes. Install trellises before the plants become large so roots are not disturbed later.

Guide vines upward with soft ties and keep heavy fruit supported. Growing vertically saves bed space, improves airflow, and makes harvesting easier.

Arrange Plants by Height

Place taller crops along the back and sides where they will not shade shorter vegetables. Use the sunnier front edges for lettuce, herbs, radishes, peppers, and compact flowers.

Planting marigolds, nasturtiums, calendula, or other suitable flowers among the vegetables adds color and brings pollinators into the enclosure when the door is open.

Avoid overcrowding. Dense planting reduces airflow and makes it easier for moisture related diseases to spread.

Plan the Watering System

A drip line or soaker hose delivers water directly to the soil without soaking the leaves. Install the irrigation before plants fill the beds and secure the tubing so it does not become a tripping hazard in the walkway.

Water deeply when the upper soil begins to dry. Raised beds usually drain and warm faster than ground level gardens, so they may need more frequent watering during hot weather.

Maintain the Enclosure

Inspect the mesh regularly for loose edges, bent sections, and small openings near the ground. Check the door latch and tighten framing connections as the wood expands and contracts.

At the end of each season, remove dead plant material, clean the walkway, and add compost to replace nutrients removed by the harvest.

Why This Transformation Works

The enclosed design protects vegetables from many common garden animals without requiring constant netting around individual plants. The raised beds improve drainage, create loose growing soil, and reduce bending during planting and harvesting.

The U shaped layout uses space efficiently while keeping every section accessible from the central walkway. Painting the finished structure also turns a practical enclosure into an attractive garden feature that looks intentional throughout the entire growing season.

07/10/2026

DIY Outdoor Clay Stove: Build a Rustic Wood-Fired Cooking Station for Your Garden
There's something timeless about cooking over a real wood fire.
A handcrafted outdoor clay stove combines traditional craftsmanship with practical cooking, creating a beautiful focal point for your backyard while providing an efficient way to prepare meals outdoors.
Featuring multiple burners fueled by separate fire chambers, this rustic stove is ideal for family gatherings, homesteads, off-grid living, or anyone who enjoys authentic wood-fired cooking.
Here's how a clay stove can transform your outdoor kitchen.

Why Choose a Clay Stove?
Clay stoves have been used for centuries because they retain heat efficiently and require very little fuel.
Benefits
Uses inexpensive firewood
Excellent heat retention
Can support multiple pots at once
Eco-friendly construction using natural materials
Adds rustic charm to any garden
Ideal for slow cooking, boiling, and simmering
Unlike an open fire, the enclosed design directs heat toward the cookware, making cooking more efficient.

How the Multi-Burner Design Works
This stove features three individual cooking stations, each with its own firebox.
Advantages
Cook several dishes simultaneously
Control the heat for each pot independently
Save fuel by heating only the burners you need
Reduce cooking time during large meals
This setup is perfect for preparing soups, stews, vegetables, sauces, and hot drinks all at the same time.

Materials You'll Need
To build a similar outdoor stove, gather:
Clay-rich soil
Sand
Straw or natural fibers (for added strength)
Fire bricks or refractory bricks for the fireboxes
Flat stones or concrete base
Steel pot rings or cast iron supports
Gravel for drainage
Firewood
Using fire-resistant materials around the combustion chamber helps extend the stove's lifespan.

Build on a Strong Foundation
A stable foundation is essential for safety and durability.
Good options include:
Stone slabs
Concrete pad
Brick platform
Compacted gravel with large flat stones
A solid base helps prevent shifting and cracking over time.

Design Features to Include
A practical outdoor clay stove may include:
Three or more cooking openings
Individual wood-loading doors
Decorative carved patterns
Pot supports
Chimney or rear vent (optional)
Weather-resistant finish
Small preparation shelf nearby
These features improve both functionality and appearance.

Best Foods to Cook
Wood-fired clay stoves are perfect for:
Soups
Stews
Rice
Beans
Pasta
Vegetable dishes
Homemade sauces
Tea and coffee
Slow-cooked meats
Stock and broth
The steady, radiant heat makes them especially well-suited for long cooking times.

Landscaping Around Your Stove
Surround the cooking area with attractive plants to create a relaxing outdoor kitchen.
Excellent choices include:
Lavender
Rosemary
Thyme
Sage
Ornamental grasses
Natural stone edging
Gravel walkways
Aromatic herbs not only enhance the setting but are also convenient for cooking.

Safety Tips
To use your clay stove safely:
Build it in a well-ventilated outdoor area.
Keep it away from buildings and overhanging branches.
Place it on a non-combustible surface.
Never leave a fire unattended.
Keep a bucket of water, sand, or a fire extinguisher nearby.
Allow the stove to cool completely before cleaning out ashes.
Inspect the clay regularly and repair small cracks before they become larger.

Maintenance
With proper care, a clay stove can last for many years.
Protect it from heavy rain with a roof or waterproof cover.
Remove ash after each use.
Reseal cracks with fresh clay as needed.
Keep the firebox clean for efficient airflow.
Store firewood in a dry location.
Regular maintenance helps preserve both performance and appearance.

Final Thoughts
A DIY outdoor clay stove is more than just a cooking appliance—it's a celebration of traditional craftsmanship and outdoor living. Its efficient wood-fired design, natural materials, and rustic character make it a practical addition to gardens, cabins, farms, and backyard entertaining spaces.
Whether you're preparing a family meal or simply enjoying the experience of cooking over an open flame, a handcrafted clay stove offers warmth, functionality, and timeless charm.

07/10/2026

Turn a basic fire pit circle into an outdoor gathering room with garden beds, comfortable seating, and hanging porch swings.

The transformation works because it improves more than appearance. The paved circle creates dependable footing, the timber frame gives the area height and enclosure, the swings add movement and comfort, and layered planting makes the entire space feel connected to the yard.

Plan the whole space before building

Begin by marking the fire pit, seating positions, swing structure, entrance path, and surrounding garden beds at the same time.

Set temporary chairs where the permanent seating will go and use stakes to represent the timber posts. This reveals whether the circle feels comfortable or crowded before excavation begins.

Leave a clear route from the house or main lawn. The entrance should not require people to squeeze behind chairs or pass between a moving swing and the fire.

Evaluate the fire pit location

Confirm that the existing fire pit has adequate clearance from fences, trees, structures, dry vegetation, furniture, and the proposed wooden frame.

Follow local fire regulations and the clearance requirements for the specific fire pit. A wood-burning fire can produce sparks and flames that extend beyond the metal or masonry ring.

The mature trees shown in this setting require special attention. Remove low branches where appropriate, keep dry leaves cleared from the patio, and do not operate the fire during windy or unusually dry conditions.

Give swings more room than chairs

A stationary chair remains in one position, but a swing travels forward and backward. Its entire movement zone must stay safely away from the fire, tables, lanterns, posts, and people walking through the space.

Position the swings farther from the fire than ordinary chairs. Test the proposed locations with temporary ropes or a full-size template before setting the posts.

Leave generous open space behind each swing so it cannot strike plants, the fence, or anyone walking through the garden.

Build the timber frame as a structure

A swing frame carries moving loads that are much greater than the weight of the people sitting still. The posts, beams, connections, footings, and swing hardware must all be designed for that movement.

Use appropriately sized exterior-rated lumber and structural fasteners. Decorative screws, light pergola brackets, and ordinary eye hooks may not be suitable for supporting swings.

For a long beam carrying multiple swings, have the dimensions and connections checked by a qualified builder or engineer. A beam that appears substantial can still bend or fail when two loaded swings move at the same time.

Anchor the posts properly

Set the posts on concrete footings or approved structural post bases designed for outdoor loads. The exact footing depth depends on the soil, frost depth, structure size, and local requirements.

Keep wood out of standing water and avoid burying untreated portions directly in soil. A slightly elevated metal base can help the lower ends dry after rain.

Brace the posts and beams so the frame cannot rack sideways. The finished structure should remain rigid when the swings are used.

Use swing-rated hardware

Install hangers specifically rated for porch swings or similar moving loads. Through-bolted hardware is generally more dependable than hooks attached with short screws.

Follow the swing manufacturer’s instructions for hanger spacing, chain angle, weight capacity, and minimum overhead clearance.

Inspect chains, bolts, hangers, and wooden attachment points regularly. Outdoor moisture and repeated motion can loosen hardware over time.

Keep combustible decorations away from heat

String lights add warmth, but they should not hang where heat, smoke, or sparks can reach them. Use exterior-rated fixtures and secure the cords so they do not rub against swing chains or sag into the seating area.

Lanterns near the posts should use enclosed electric or battery-powered lights rather than open flames.

Avoid dry vines, fabric canopies, hanging baskets, and combustible decorations near the fire clearance zone.

Decide on the patio diameter

The patio must hold the fire pit, stationary chairs, swing movement zones, small tables, and circulation space.

Mark the outer circle with a rope attached to a stake at the center. Place all furniture inside the outline and walk through the arrangement before removing soil.

A patio that fits empty furniture may still feel too small when people are seated. Allow room to stand, pull chairs backward, carry firewood, and move around the fire without stepping into the garden.

Protect nearby tree roots

Avoid cutting major roots while excavating the patio or digging post footings. Large roots contribute to tree stability, and damage may not become obvious until years later.

Shift the patio or post locations when important roots are encountered. Do not pile extra soil, base stone, or mulch against tree trunks.

Limit heavy equipment beneath the tree canopy because repeated traffic can compact the root zone.

Prepare a stable patio base

Remove grass, loose topsoil, and organic material from the circle. Shape the subgrade so water drains away from the fire pit and does not collect beneath the swings.

Install compactable crushed stone in shallow layers, compacting each one thoroughly. Add the appropriate leveling material before laying pavers, flagstone, or another noncombustible surface.

A strong base prevents rocking furniture, sunken stones, and low areas that hold water after storms.

Use a comfortable surface

Flagstone, concrete pavers, or another flat masonry surface works well around a fire pit. Choose materials with enough texture for secure footing but not so much variation that chairs wobble.

Keep joints narrow and stable. Fine gravel or stone dust may be used between flagstones when appropriate for the installation.

Avoid loose, deep gravel beneath swings and chairs. It can make furniture unstable and create difficult footing when someone stands quickly.

Install durable edging

Secure the patio perimeter with masonry, steel edging, or another system that prevents the base and joint material from spreading into the garden.

Keep the edging low and visible enough to avoid becoming a tripping hazard.

The finished circle should have one clear entrance connected to a path. A defined opening makes the space feel welcoming and helps protect plants from repeated foot traffic.

Set the fire pit securely

The fire pit should sit level on a stable, noncombustible surface. Follow its instructions for the required base, ventilation, and clearance.

A masonry surround should be built from materials intended for high heat. Ordinary landscape block, wet natural stone, and some concrete products can crack when repeatedly exposed to fire.

Do not enlarge the fire beyond what the structure was designed to contain. A modest fire is usually more comfortable in an enclosed seating area.

Balance swings with stationary seating

Two swings across the back create a strong focal point, while stationary lounge chairs near the entrance provide seating for people who prefer not to move.

Angle the front chairs slightly toward one another rather than pointing every seat directly at the flames. This makes conversation easier and keeps the arrangement from feeling rigid.

Small side tables provide a safe place for drinks and reduce the temptation to set items on the fire pit edge.

Choose practical swings

Use swings made from exterior-rated wood, recycled poly lumber, or another weather-resistant material.

Seat cushions should be designed for outdoor exposure and removed when the fire is producing sparks. Keep blankets, pillows, and loose fabric away from the flame.

Select a swing depth that allows people to sit comfortably without pushing their feet too close to the fire as they move.

Create broad planting beds

A deep planting border makes the patio feel settled into the yard. Instead of installing a thin ring of flowers, provide enough depth for shrubs, ornamental grasses, perennials, and lower edging plants.

Use a garden hose to outline broad curves around the circle. Keep the entrance open and avoid creating narrow strips of lawn that are difficult to mow.

Leave a noncombustible or sparsely planted buffer between the patio and the main garden where needed for fire safety.

Match plants to the light

The tree canopy may create partial shade during much of the day. Observe the location after the trees have fully leafed out.

Hostas, ferns, coral bells, astilbes, sedges, woodland phlox, and shade-tolerant hydrangeas can fill cooler areas.

Coneflowers, black-eyed Susans, salvia, catmint, and many ornamental grasses need brighter conditions. Reserve them for the sections that receive enough direct sunlight.

Layer the garden

Place taller shrubs and grasses along the outer back edge where they can soften the fence. Use medium-height flowers through the center and compact plants along the patio.

Keep plants nearest the swings low enough that they do not interfere with movement. Avoid thorny shrubs beside seats, paths, or areas where people may step backward.

Repeat several dependable plants around the circle. Repetition makes the patio feel like one garden room rather than a collection of unrelated flowers.

Keep dry plants away from flames

Ornamental grasses can look beautiful around a fire pit, but their dry winter foliage is combustible. Give them generous separation from the active fire area and cut dead growth before the fire season when appropriate.

Avoid resinous evergreens, dry seed heads, peeling bark, deep mulch, and plants that retain dead stems close to the fire.

Rake fallen leaves from the patio and surrounding buffer before lighting a fire.

Add flowers for a long season

Combine plants that bloom at different times so the garden changes gradually from spring through fall.

Hydrangeas can provide summer structure, coneflowers and black-eyed Susans bring strong midsummer color, and asters or ornamental grasses can extend interest later in the season.

Foliage plants keep the border attractive when fewer flowers are open. Contrasting leaf shapes often create a stronger design than relying only on bloom color.

Include an inviting path

Connect the fire pit to the house, patio, or main yard with a path wide enough for two people or someone carrying supplies.

Use the same or a coordinating material to visually connect the path and circular patio. The transition should be level and easy to see at night.

Keep the route free from swing movement and direct it toward the open side of the circle.

Use lighting in layers

String lights on the timber frame create a warm overhead glow, while low path lights help people enter safely.

Lantern-style electric lights near the posts can emphasize the structure without shining directly into people’s eyes.

Keep the lighting subtle. The fire should remain the main visual focus when it is burning.

Plan for drainage

The paved surface should shed rainwater without directing it toward the fire pit, timber posts, fence, or nearby trees.

Shape the surrounding beds so runoff does not carry mulch across the patio. Use stone or a clean edge along areas that receive concentrated water.

Correct standing water before installing plants. A beautiful fire pit area will be frustrating if the chairs and swings remain damp after every storm.

Keep the space usable without a fire

The best fire pit patios remain inviting during warm weather when no fire is needed.

Comfortable swings, shaded seating, flowers, and small tables can turn the circle into a place for reading, morning coffee, or conversation throughout the day.

This makes the investment more valuable because the area is not limited to cool evenings.

Inspect everything each season

Check the swing hardware, structural connections, post bases, lighting, fire pit, patio joints, and nearby tree branches.

Tighten loose bolts and replace damaged chains or hardware immediately. Reset unstable stones and trim plants before they interfere with movement.

Remove dry leaves, dead stems, and combustible debris before each fire.

Why this transformation works

The original circle provides a practical patio and central fire pit, but the timber frame turns it into a recognizable outdoor room. Hanging swings add comfort and personality, while stationary chairs preserve flexible seating near the entrance.

Layered garden beds soften the hard circular edge, lights make the structure welcoming after sunset, and the open lawn around it prevents the space from feeling crowded. The result is a backyard destination that works for fires, quiet conversations, family gatherings, and relaxed evenings throughout much of the year.

07/10/2026

Turn old windows into a flowering garden wall that gets more beautiful every year.

Discarded window frames can become striking trellises for climbing flowers. The open panes give vines plenty of places to weave through, while the repeating frames add height and structure long before the plants reach full size.

Choose the right windows

Look for solid wood frames that are still structurally sound. Remove all glass, loose hardware, protruding nails, and sharp edges. If the windows are old, assume the paint may contain lead. Avoid sanding it dry, keep peeling paint away from edible plants, and seal the entire frame with an exterior rated clear finish or fresh paint.

Prepare the planting area

Clear weeds and grass from the bed, loosen compacted soil, and mix in compost where each vine will be planted. Add a layer of mulch after planting to conserve moisture and make the area look finished while the plants are still small.

Install sturdy support posts

Set pressure treated or naturally rot resistant posts deeply enough to remain stable in wind and wet soil. Place each window between two posts and secure it with exterior screws or metal brackets. Keep the wooden frames slightly above the soil so they are less likely to rot.

Create an interesting arrangement

The windows do not have to be identical or perfectly aligned. Mixing tall, narrow, and wide frames creates a collected cottage garden appearance. Leave enough room between them for plants to spread without turning the entire display into one dense wall.

Select suitable climbing plants

Clematis works especially well because its leaf stems can grip narrow parts of the window frame. Climbing roses can also be used, but their canes will need to be loosely tied to the supports. Other possibilities include honeysuckle, annual morning glories, sweet peas, and black eyed Susan vine.

Match the vine to the sunlight available. Most flowering climbers bloom best with at least six hours of sun, although some clematis varieties tolerate partial shade.

Plant away from the posts

Place each vine several inches away from the support rather than directly against the wood. Angle the plant gently toward the window and guide the first stems with soft garden ties. Avoid tightening the ties around growing stems.

Fill the lower level

Climbing flowers provide the height, but shorter perennials make the transformation feel complete. Plant compact flowers and foliage around the base to hide bare stems and create layers. Good options include salvia, catmint, hardy geraniums, coreopsis, coneflowers, hostas, and small flowering shrubs.

Maintain the display

Water deeply during the first growing season and continue training young stems through the open panes. Prune each vine according to its variety, since different clematis and roses bloom on different types of growth. Inspect the wooden frames each spring and reseal any exposed areas before moisture causes damage.

Why this project is worth doing

Window trellises turn discarded materials into functional garden art. They provide privacy, add vertical color, create habitat for pollinators, and make a young flower bed look intentional before it has fully matured. As the vines spread across the frames, the structure gradually disappears into a living wall of flowers.

07/10/2026

How to Build a Simple Rainwater Harvesting System with an IBC Tote

Collecting rainwater is one of the easiest and most cost-effective ways to reduce your water bill while keeping your garden healthy.
An Intermediate Bulk Container (IBC) tote can store hundreds of gallons of rainwater, making it an excellent choice for homesteads, farms, and backyard gardens.
Here's how this simple setup works and why it's becoming increasingly popular.

Why Use an IBC Tote for Rainwater Collection?
IBC totes are durable plastic containers surrounded by a galvanized steel cage. Most hold around 275–330 gallons (1,040–1,250 liters) of water, providing a large storage capacity in a compact footprint.
Benefits include:
Reduces reliance on municipal water
Lowers water bills
Provides water during dry periods
Environmentally friendly
Ideal for gardens, orchards, and landscaping
Easy to expand with multiple connected tanks

How the System Works
Rainwater flows from your home's gutters into a downspout. Instead of draining onto the ground, the water is redirected into the IBC tote, where it is stored until needed.
The tank's bottom outlet makes it easy to:
Fill watering cans
Connect a garden hose
Supply drip irrigation systems
Water raised beds and flower gardens
Gravity often provides enough pressure for basic watering needs.

What You'll Need
Building a basic rainwater collection system requires only a few components:
One food-grade IBC tote
Gutters and downspouts
PVC pipe or flexible downspout extension
Overflow pipe
Fine mesh screen to keep out leaves and insects
Stable platform made of concrete blocks or gravel
Hose adapter or valve

Choosing the Right Location
The best place for your rain barrel is:
Directly beneath a roof downspout
On solid, level ground
Elevated slightly for better water pressure
Easily accessible for maintenance
Close to your garden
A raised platform also makes filling watering cans much easier.

Important Installation Tips
Use Food-Grade Containers
Choose an IBC tote that previously stored food products or drinking water ingredients. Avoid containers that held chemicals or hazardous materials.
Install an Overflow
Heavy rain can quickly fill the tank. An overflow outlet safely diverts excess water away from your home's foundation.
Keep Debris Out
Install a mesh screen where water enters the tank to prevent leaves, insects, and mosquitoes from getting inside.
Secure the Tank
A full IBC tote can weigh over 2,000 pounds (900 kg). Always place it on a sturdy, level foundation capable of supporting the weight.

Best Uses for Collected Rainwater
Stored rainwater is perfect for many outdoor tasks:
Watering vegetable gardens
Irrigating flower beds
Fruit trees
Greenhouses
Washing outdoor equipment
Cleaning patios and driveways
Many gardeners prefer rainwater because it contains no chlorine and is naturally soft.

Maintenance Tips
Keep your system operating efficiently by:
Cleaning gutters regularly
Checking screens for debris
Flushing sediment from the tank once or twice a year
Inspecting fittings for leaks
Draining the system before freezing weather if you live in a cold climate

Can You Expand the System?
Absolutely. One of the biggest advantages of IBC totes is that they can be connected together.
With multiple tanks, you can store hundreds or even thousands of gallons of rainwater for:
Large gardens
Livestock watering
Emergency water storage
Seasonal irrigation

Final Thoughts
An IBC tote rainwater harvesting system is an affordable DIY project that delivers long-term benefits. With minimal maintenance and a few basic materials, you can capture free rainwater, reduce water waste, and keep your garden thriving throughout the growing season.
Whether you're a homeowner, gardener, or homesteader, this simple setup is an effective way to make better use of one of nature's most valuable resources.

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